Fortress Fencing Team · September 10, 2026 · 7 min read
The Chain Link Repairs You Can Do Yourself, and the Ones You Should Not
A step-by-step DIY guide to patching, straightening, and re-tensioning a chain link fence, plus how to tell when a repair is bigger than a Saturday afternoon.
Tools you’ll need
Most chain link fence repairs are within reach of a homeowner with a free afternoon and the right gear:
- Fence pliers (or lineman’s pliers), for weaving mesh and twisting ties
- A come-along or fence stretcher bar, for pulling sagging fabric taut
- Heavy-duty work gloves and safety glasses, non-negotiable, see below
- Replacement fence ties or hog rings, plus hog ring pliers
- Bolt cutters or heavy wire cutters, for trimming damaged mesh cleanly
- A spare roll of matching-gauge chain link mesh, for larger patches
- A replacement tension bar and/or post cap, if either is cracked or missing
- A tape measure and a level
Chain link mesh under tension can snap back with real force once cut, and cut wire ends are sharp enough to slice a bare hand. Wear gloves and safety glasses for every step below, even the quick ones.
Patching a small hole or tear in the mesh
Small tears, the kind left by a dog, a fallen branch, or a stray line trimmer, are the easiest repair on this list. For a hole spanning just a few links, you usually don’t need new mesh: use fence pliers to re-hook the loose diamond strands back into their neighbours, working link by link the way the fabric was originally woven, and twist cut ends around adjoining wire so nothing sticks out.
For anything larger, trim the ragged edges with bolt cutters, then cut a patch from spare mesh that overlaps the hole by two or three links on every side. Lace it in the same way, weaving with pliers, or clip hog rings every four to six inches around the perimeter for a faster hold.
Straightening a bent post (or knowing when not to)
A post that’s taken a hit from a vehicle, a falling limb, or years of lawn equipment can often be coaxed back into place, provided the damage is a gentle bow rather than a sharp kink. Slide a length of pipe over the post for leverage, or anchor a come-along to a solid fixed point and winch it back toward plumb in small increments, checking with a level as you go. Work slowly, steel moves gradually under steady pressure and can crack if you rush it.
This only works when the footing underneath is solid. If the post is cracked, rusted through near the base, kinked at a sharp angle, or rocks in its concrete, straightening won’t hold and it will simply bend again. That post needs replacing, not reshaping.
Re-tensioning a sagging fence
A fence that sags between posts, with diamonds pulled into ovals instead of squares, almost always just needs re-tensioning. Unbolt the tension band securing the fabric to the terminal post at one end of the sagging section and slide the tension bar out of the mesh. Attach a come-along or fence stretcher between the loose fabric and a solid anchor point further along the line, then take up the slack gradually until the mesh sits taut without distorting the diamond pattern.
Rethread the tension bar through the same column of diamonds and re-bolt the bands to the post. While you’re there, check the top rail and, if your fence has one, the bottom tension wire, both help fabric hold tension evenly and are worth snugging up too.
Replacing a broken tension bar or post cap
These are two of the cheapest, fastest fixes a chain link fence ever needs. A bent or snapped tension bar slides out of the mesh vertically, one diamond column at a time, the same way it went in. Unbolt it from the tension bands, slide in a new bar of matching length, and re-bolt it to the terminal, corner, or gate post.
A cracked or missing post cap looks minor but lets rain sit inside the hollow post, rusting the pipe from the inside out well before any rust shows on the outside. Pry the old cap off, wipe the rim clean, and press a new one on, matching the post diameter exactly so it doesn’t pop off in the wind.
When a leaning post means it’s time to call a pro
Not every leaning post is a DIY job, and this is the one repair here where cutting corners costs more later. If a post leans because a tension band or tie let go, that’s a quick fix. But if the lean is coming from the footing itself, cracked concrete, a post heaved upward over winter, or soil that’s saturated and eroding, no amount of pulling with a come-along will fix it. The old footing needs to come out, a new one poured to proper depth below the frost line, and the post reset plumb before backfilling. Topping up cracked concrete around a leaning post is a common DIY move that rarely holds, especially with the freeze-thaw cycles and wet winters we get around Surrey and the rest of the Fraser Valley.
More than one post leaning, a cracked or frost-heaved footing, a gate that won’t sit square, or any job involving breaking out and repouring concrete, that’s a call-a-pro job. It’s the difference between a fix that lasts one season and one that lasts twenty years.
That’s exactly the repair work our crew handles every week across Surrey and the Lower Mainland, so there’s no shame in stopping at “patched the small stuff myself” and letting us take the footings from there.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I repair a chain link fence without replacing the whole section?
Yes, in most cases. Isolated damage like a small tear, a bent post, or sagging fabric can be fixed on its own. Full section replacement only makes sense once mesh is rusted through in several spots or the posts are structurally compromised.
What’s the best way to fix a small hole in chain link fencing?
Weave loose mesh back together with fence pliers for tiny tears, or patch with matching mesh and hog rings for anything bigger than a few links. Trim jagged wire ends first, and match your existing fabric’s gauge and diamond size.
How do I know if a leaning post needs a professional?
If the footing is cracked or frost-heaved, or the post leans again shortly after you straighten it, call a pro. A post rocking in visibly broken concrete needs the footing rebuilt, not just pulled back into place.
How tight should chain link fence fabric be?
Tight enough that it doesn’t sag between posts, with the diamonds staying square rather than stretching into ovals. Bring the fabric up gradually and stop as soon as the sag is gone; over-tightening can pull tension bands loose.
Is it cheaper to repair or replace a chain link fence?
Repair is almost always cheaper for isolated damage. A patched hole, a re-tensioned section, or a swapped tension bar costs a fraction of full replacement, which only makes sense once damage is widespread across posts and footings.
Past the Point of a DIY Fix?
If your repair involves a cracked footing, a frost-heaved post, or a gate that won’t sit right, our crew can take it from here, done right and built for another Surrey winter.